September 21 & 22, 2016–Seneca Rocks

We left Lake Fairfax Tuesday morning and headed for Seneca Rocks, WV.  Kind of glad to be leaving the hustle & bustle of the DC area.  And boy this IS the complete opposite.  Our campground  is in a National Wildlife Area; it is quiet and in the middle of nothing.  It’s 20 miles to anything.

It’s Wednesday and it’s cooler with lower humidity;  a welcome relief.   Our first stop is to hike up Seneca Rocks.  The rocks are a vertical uprising made of quartzite.  They are popular with hikers and rock climbers.  There are several rock climbing schools, but we will hike up the 1000 feet on the 1.5 mile trail.  We are promised a great view from the top.

Our destination is to the left of the left peak where there is an observation platform.  So up we go.

It took  over an hour to reach the platform.  The trail was well maintained but pretty steep in places.  Whew!  The view was worth the effort!

From here we went to Seneca Caverns, a privately owned cave.  As you know, if you’ve seen our earlier posts, we have seen some caves.  This one was OK, not very big, but had some very pretty formations.

Our tour guide was also a waitress at the adjoining restrauant.  So we wonder how that job description looks, “Wanted, Waitress and Cave Guide” ?? 

Our last stop was a drive into Smoke Hole Canyon.  A very scenic area.  It is all part of the same rock outcroppings as Seneca Rocks. 

Along the way we found quite the unusual little settlement.  Located along a 2 rut drive called Campden Lane.

There were about 25 trailers along about 1/4 mile here.  It appears they have built a kind of house around the trailer.  They all look like they have been here a while.  Hmm…. note the Puma on the left is for sale.  We thought about inquiring.  A perfect summer or year round retreat don’t you think?

Tomorrow we plan to drive to Cass, WV to hop on a train for a ride back in time.

September 19 & 20, 2016–Smithsonian Washington DC

They have been threatening rain for the last 2 days.  Well today, Monday, they got it right.  Only sprinkling at the campground, but a pretty steady rain when we got to DC.  We tested our skills in riding the Metro into DC.  Actually worked out pretty well.  We parked at a nearby station about 5 miles from the campground jumped on the silver line to the Smithsonian stop.  About 45-50 min. total travel time.  Cost round trip with parking was about $17 for both of us with our senior card. Our visit spanned 2 day and Tuesday was cloudy, but no rain.

Our goal Monday was the Smithsonian “Castle.”  This was the first and original museum.  It was designed to look like a castle and completed in 1855.  It originally housed the entire collection that today is spread over 19 museums.

However, the interesting story is how it came about.  The original funding came from James Smithson, an English scientist who lived between 1765 and 1829.  He bequeathed his fortune to the US for creation of an institution for learning to be located in Washington, DC.

The interesting part is he never visited the US and never told anyone in the US of his plans.  So upon his death, the US recieved information that they inherited a bunch of money.  Nice surprise!  With those funds, the Smithsonian Institute was off and runnning in 1846.  Think about this.  I doubt the opinion in England was very favorable toward the US after 1776 and 1812.  So James must not have shared his intentions with his countrymen either; it was merely written in his will.  Even then, the US was actually quite surprised when they got the money.

Today, the building houses the offices and a visitor center, but the architecture inside and out is beautiful.  A couple of shots follow.

Because it is a visitor center, they have collections of items that hit the high points of the other museums. Check out some of the interesting old stuff.

The first Apple Computer

Howdy Doody

It’s really bad when you are old enough to actually own, have owned, or can relate to, items you see in a museum.

Now for the wierd part.  James Smithson was originally buried in England, but they planned to move the cemetary he was in, so the Smithsonian managed to have  his remains sent here and they are in a cyrpt in a wing of the Castle.  He had no living decendants.  So, what looks like a covered bathtub is where James now rests.  Think he prowls the halls after closing?

We spent the rest of Monday and Tuesday exploring the American History and Natural History museums.  No pictures to share, but take it from us, there was lots to see and some really unusual items.  Probably our favorite was the gemstones in the Natural History Museum.

There was a makeover in process along  the Mall, scheduled to be completed in December, so things were a bit of a mess around there. The weather even on Tuesday was still looking like rain at times, so we did not venture around much since we have both been to DC before.

We had a special treat on Monday night visiting some of Dan’s friends from his ExxonMobil days.  A great time!

Wednesday we head into West Virginia to Seneca Recreation Area.  Looking forward to some awesome scenery.

September 18, 2016 Sunday–Discovery

As planned, we went to the Smithsonian Air & Space Museum located near Dulles Airport.  This is a relatively new facility.  The main A&S is located on the Mall in DC.  We actually took a bus from a stop a couple of miles from the campground.  It drops you right at the museum front door after about a 1/2 hour of travel, sweet!

Our main objective was to see the Space Shuttle Discovery and it was great.  It appears  as if it just completed a mission.  It shows the streaks and stains from its re-entry after nearly 40 missions.  No polishing or painting.

 

The Discovery  was in service from 1984 to 2011 and last flew the 133rd Space Shuttle Mission in 2011.  It was the longest serving Shuttle in the fleet of six.   39 missions, 150 million miles.  Wow, some frequent flyer points there.  As you know, to protect it from re-entry heat of 2500 plus degrees, it is covered with 24,000 tiles.  They are 1 to 4 inches thick and made of a carbon coated, ceramic honey combed, material.

Each tile is individual, with unique identifying information printed on it.

The circles are locations to inject a waterproofing material.  If water were trapped in the honeycomb, freezing or boiling could break the tile, causing it to fail.  This injection is manual and done after every mission.  Pretty labor intensive.  I wonder what job skills are required for that job, other than lots of patience.  About 100 tiles get replaced after every mission.

Check out the wear and tear.

 

Note the streaks from the extreme velocity on re-entry.

There are many unique, one of a kind, aircraft here.  One that is notable is the B-29 Enola Gay, the plane that dropped the bomb on Hiroshima.  To accommodate the size and weight of that bomb, the bomb bay had to be modified and a lot of stuff, like guns and paint, were removed to save weight to give it the necessary range.  It departed from the Aleutian Islands, a round trip of 5000 miles.  The max range for the B-29.

We followed an excellent tour about military, historical aircraft, from balloons used in the Civil War for observation to helicopters used in Vietnam.  Our docent, retired Air Force, was a walking history book.  The tour lasted over 2 hours, with some really interesting side stories.  How he remembered all this without a single note was remarkable.

An interesting day!

September 17, 2016 Saturday–C&O Canal Part 3–Great Falls

Today we embarked on our final segment of the C&O Canal.  The destination is The Great Falls Tavern; one of the NPS visitor centers. 

In its day, it was used by touring passengers from DC and the working folks on the commercial boats.  As we learned, this area was a common destination for folks from DC, as a weekend getaway.  We were looking forward to a mule drawn canal boat ride that usually operates on weekends.  Unfortunately, due to low water levels in the Canal they were not in operation.  The boat used for the tours, the Charles F. Mercer, was not one of the “freighters”, but a smaller passenger carrying boat.  The Charles F. Mercer is not a replica, but actually the original “Mercer” restored.

Although a disappointment, we did have the opportunity to chat with a captain that conducts the tour. 

One of the things he explained was how the lock doors functioned.  Did you know that Leonardo daVinci designed how lock doors are angled, or mitered, toward the up current end of locks when closed?  This configuration caused the doors to press tighter against each other the higher the water presssure.  That design is universal today. 

The following picture shows a closed lock against the down flowing current.  Notice in each door there are two vertical iron shafts.  Theses shafts connected to rotating shutters that allowed the water to flow in or out of the lock.  Most locks we have seen, have tubes or ducts on either side of the lock that pass water.  We understand that was tried here, but they plugged with silt.

 

The place got its name from a series of rapids and falls in the Potomac, a drop of 41 feet.  So there are five, closely spaced locks in this area.

Not much water passing here today.  Normally those rocks would be covered.  What did they do in the Canal’s heyday if water levels were low like now?  In Cumberland a huge steam powered lift pump would pump water from the Potomac into the Canal to keep it watered.  Additionally, there were weirs, dams, etc. to keep water in the canal.

We also got a couple of other questions answered. Mules are crossed from a mare and a donkey (jack), but mules are infertile.  Their DNA gets screwed up.  So if you want another mule, you need another mare and jack.  They  live about 10 years.  A horse and donkey live over twice that long.

At the end of the Canal, in Georgetown, there was an incline plane.  It’s a sloped railway that permitted the boats to be lowered or raised, between the Canal and the Potomac; only a ruins now.  Why would they want that?  The Potomac offered better ways to off load cargo, remember 10,000 lbs of coal per hour, per man?  Being a larger body of water, it was not so congested, allowing the boats to turn around.

A couple of additional pixs.

  Stantions at the lock.  Note the grooves, made a hundred years ago, caused by wear from lines where they tied up the boats.  We have also seen wear grooves along the sides of aqueducts and locks from the boats as they slid through.

Another Blue Heron.  We saw one of these up at another lock we visited.  At least for us, rarely seen, and now we have seen two of them.

A Canal cargo boat crossection showing the cabins and cargo holds.  At the bow was the mule barn, the center was the hay barn and where the mule driver slept, and the stern was the family quarters.

Our next stop was going to be Georgetown to see the very end of the Canal.  However our attempt was in vain.  It’s Saturday for crying out loud, but the traffic and total lack of parking prevented us from stopping here.  We thought it gets bad around Detroit. Hah, not on it’s worst day.  This place was a zoo!  People everywhere.  So we will not be sharing that milepost 0 photograph.

This completes one of our trip objectives, to learn about the C&O Canal.  And we have learned a bunch.  This Canal is an important piece of US transportation history.  We hope you have also found it interesting.

Tomorrow we head to the Air & Space Museum near Dulles airport.  We want to see Discovery at it’s retirement home.  Then into DC.  We’ll be using the rail system to get there.  A bit of a new gig for us.  Stay tuned.

September 15, 2016 Thursday–Civil War Medicine

After visiting the Antietam Battlefield with its huge number of killed and wounded, it caused us to wonder; how did they deal with all of this?  Near Antietam was the Pry House, a residence turned into a field hospital.  Unfortunately it wasn’t open while we are here, but the National Civil War Medical Musum in Fredrick was.  So that’s our destination.

Prior to the Civil War, the state of medicine was pretty primative; no understanding of infection or sterlization of instruments.  There also was no system in place for removing and treating the wounded from the battlefield.  So if there is anything good that came of the Civil War, it was the formation of the ambulance service and the establishment of field hospitals.  In fact we learned some interesting facts.  Of the 4 year duration of the war, actual battle days numbered 60.  This meant that many more days were spent in camp or marching.

Fact one:  60% of the soldiers died of diarrhea, dysentery, measles, small pox, pneumonia, and malaria due to the unsanitary conditions of the camps; not gunshot wounds.  It was not uncommon for these camps to have 20,000 men.

Fact two:  The devastating nature of the wounds were due to the new 57 caliber rifled musket, in combination with what they called a Minie’ ball, which is equivalent to today’s hollow point bullet.  Combine that with the insane, Napoleonic fighting formations,  which worked with smooth bore musket balls in previous wars it became suicide with the more accurate, powerful, and devastating nature of the Minie’.

Dr Johnathon Letterman developed battlefield medical procedures, including ambulance transport of the wounded and a triage system to determine treatment response based on the type of wound.  For example, the mortally wounded would be seperated and made comfortable.  More minor injuries were of lower priority than those requiring surgery.  Which brings us to a couple of other facts.

Fact Three:  Soldiers requiring surgery were given anesthesia, usually chloroform or ether.  No, they were not given a bullet to bite down on nor a bottle of whiskey.

Fact Four:  Amputation was not a given, but many were done if the Field Surgeon felt the damage to the bone could not be repaired.  60,000 amputations were done during the Civil War, so they got pretty good at it.  Surgeons could complete one in about 10 minutes.  Survival rates for amputation was 75%.

They began using iodine and bromine to prevent infection, although their understanding of germs was still limited.  They recognized the benefits of at least washing surgical instruments between operations, including the use of alcohol.

The museum was very interesting, mostly with reading panels and dioramas that included period artifacts and photographs.  Therefore there are no photos for us to share.  We learned a lot and were glad we stopped.

A parting funny, Frederick is an old 1800s town.  Parking is pretty much limited to decks/garages.  And they ain’t very big.  Driving into one today for parking, was a challenge for us and the truck.  Most vehicles in it were compact cars.  Felt like an elephant in a phone booth!

September 14, 2016 Wednesday–C&O Canal Part 2

We continue our journey east along the Canal, stopping at various features along the way.  The map below will provide reference to the locations mentioned.

We have not learned much new about the operation of the Canal and Towboats, but have heard some pretty interesting stories.  As we said earlier, the boats are loaded going downbound and usually empty returning upbound.  However, many times the captains would secretly try to secure some cargo upbound to supplement their income.  On one such occasion,  the captain agreed to transport a travelling circus on his return trip.  All went well until the circus’s bear escaped his restraints in the hold of the boat .  He caused quite a ruckus as no one wanted to enter the hold to retie him.  On another occasion, the lockmaster was drunk and let the lock drain too quickly, causing the boat to sink. 

We have encountered several cyclists along the towpath, many are making the Pittsburgh to Washington trek.  Our amazment is that if you start talking with them, they know very little about the Canal or history.  They are simply putting miles down.  They’re clueless about where they are or why this path is here; just miles covered today and miles to go.  Wouldn’t you think they would like to know more about the area?

It appears all the locks and lock houses are built from the same blueprints.  They all look alike except the rock may vary due to locale.  There are 6 lock houses that you can overnight in.  They have varying amenities, like indoor plumbing and electricity.  Others are strickly 1850s.  Price runs between $100 to $150 per night.

The longest aqueduct in the system is Monocracy Creek Aqueduct.  It has seen some restoration, but its size is impressive.

 

 

The last interstate ferry operating in Maryland is White’s Ferry, with service to Leesburg, Virginia.  It is privately owned.  Cost is $5 one way. 

There is a store/restaurant which show the levels of flooding.  The last one was 1996.

 

The next stop was Seneca Lock and Aqueduct.  Note the red stone, likely quarried locally.  The aqueduct has the same brick work.

As you can see, this puppy needs some TLC.  You are looking at flood damage, look at the lumber trapped on the upstream side.  Restoring this would be a challenge.  It is a complex structure, as there is a lock, aqueduct, and inlet dam.  As you look along these streams you can’t help but notice the very large wood debris on the upstream side of bridges.  The floods they have experienced on the Potomac must have been dooseys!

We will check out the last section of the Canal, Great Falls area, in the next few days. 

September 13, 2016 Tuesday–Harper’s Ferry

The weather cooled a bit the past weekend and humidity dropped.  Unfortunatetly, it’s warming up again, so we thought we might visit Harper’s Ferry today before the big heat and humidity returns.  Our campground in Brunswick lies between the Potomac and the Canal.  We drive about a mile down the towpath to reach the campground.  The place is a dust bowl.  Virtually no grass and dust covers everything.  I doubt they have seen rain here in months.

Brunswick is like railroad central, so there are constant trains that travel tracks on the other side of the Canal.  You see them, feel them, and hear them.  Fortunately they do not blow whistles at night.  We have to cross the tracks to get to our entrance road.  This evening we waited over 1/2 hour for the track to clear to get back to the campground.  Not going to miss this place after we leave.

Harper’s Ferry is a triangle of land formed by the convergence of the Shenandoah and Potomac Rivers.  It is low lying land and has flooded at least a dozen times, but is felt to be a strategic location due to its proximety to goods, transportation, and Washington DC.  It was an industrial center up to the 1850s.  During the Civil War it changed hands 8 times!  But, between the floods and the War, Harper’s Ferry was pretty much a ruins.  The Government stepped in, made it a National Park 1944, and is in the process of restoring it.  There is history here, from George Washington, Thomas Jefferson, and the most well known, John Brown.

However, we question if it really is money properly spent.  Just because George and Tom walked around here, does that make it significant?  In 1859 John Brown came into town, then part of Virginia, to free the slaves here.  A 3 day fight ensued with Brown and his “army” being captured or killed.  Brown was found guilty of murder, treason, and messing with slave freedom.  He was hung a month later.

It is felt his action and resultant execution was one of the larger events that started the War.  Most of the buildings here are reproductions.  The fire house building Brown holed up in has been moved 4 times, but now resides in its original location, but has had major reconstruction. 

Check out the yardstick to the left.  I shows the water levels and dates of the floods here.

A steep 2 block climb takes you up to high town, where most of todays 300 residents live.  The view of the Shenandoah River is pretty cool.  This picture was taken by a young lady (25 ish) from Chicago who was bicycling from Pittsburgh to Washington, by herself!!  Her trip was nearly complete. 

The NPS has done a good job in telling the story about Harper’s Ferry.  Probably not worth a special visit, but if in the area, it is a worthwhile stop.