Tuesday, November 11, 2014

St. Augustine, FL

Friday, November 6, 2014

We visited St. Augustine over two days, Wednesday the 4th and today.  As you probably know, St. Augustine is the oldest city in the US as Don Juan Ponce de Leon landed here from Spain in 1513.  He was exploring trade routes from Mexico and Cuba and searching for gold and a spring with magical powers.  He found no gold, but did find the Fountain of Youth.  The spring was a fresh water supply for provisioning the ships. He also found the nearby gulf stream that would aid Spain’s fleet.

Spain attempted to settle here several times but failed, however in 1564 the French did set up a fort and colony.  Spain recognized this would be a problem for their commercial fleet so they sent a military guy, Don Pedro Menendez de Aviles here in 1565.  He killed off all the French and took over the colony and fort.  He renamed the town St. Augustine, predating Jamestown and Plymouth Rock by several decades.

The history gets a little crazy here with the British coming in and Spanish getting it back, There were 8 flags over St. Augustine over the years, but the Spanish influence here remains strong.  We are drawn here by the history and the buildings. 

Our first stop is the Fountain of Youth.  Here we are trying a little of the magic water.  Do we look any younger?

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Hmm…. maybe you have to drink lots of it.  It seems we should have had something more ceremonial than paper cups.

Our next stop is the fort, Castillo de San Marcos.  Yes I know, we said no more forts.  This one had a couple of things going for it; first was the historic weapons demonstration scheduled for today and it is constructed of coquina. 

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Coquina is unique to this area, it is calcite that is loaded with old seashells.  The stuff is quarried out in blocks.  It was originally formed from an ancient seabed that covered the area 10,000s years ago.  Coquina has some unique features, it is a relatively soft stone, so cannon balls just stick in it rather that splintering the stone.  The walls are 10 feet thick in some places making it impenetrable.  Although the outer walls of this fort are covered in tabby (like stucco) and white washed, other Coquina walls have a surface that is really nasty with knife sharp edges due to the shells in it.  The Spanish would often coat coquina walls with a  poison that would kill would be attackers.

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The antique weapons demo was a cannon.  We were hoping for pistols or long guns instead, but JQ Public likes to hear cannons.  These guys re-enacted the drill of loading and firing, so it was interesting.

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The fort, designed and built by the Spanish from 1672 to 1695, is shaped to place attackers in a crossfire from any two bastions.  In addition there is a dry moat surrounding the fort, creating an effective kill zone for would be attackers.  This fort was never surrendered under battle.

A walk across the street brings you to the entry to St. Augustine, the City Gates. Back in the 1600-1700s the city was walled off with a sentry at the gate.  There was no entry after dark.

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The main street through the historic area, which extends from this gate, is St. George.  This is the street that has all the old historic buildings. Unfortunately they have really commercialized it with shops in most of the historic buildings.  Kinda cheesy, in our opinion. 

Lets skip ahead to the 1910 era.  Remember Henry Flagler?  He loved this place, so he built a really big hotel called the Ponce de Leon, now used as Flagler College. 

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It was built for the vacationing millionaire. Price to stay was in the $1000/night range, but you had to pay for 3 months worth, up front.  The next picture was the lobby, looking up.

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Its interesting that there are about 2900 students attending the Flagler College and there is no vandalism.  It would really be easy to trash a place like this, but they take a lot of pride in being here.

Here is another hotel that Flagler built called the Alcazar Hotel, now the City Hall.

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Flagler built a hospital, jail, church, and other buildings to make St Augustine a desirable destination.

Our final stop to share in St Augustine is their lighthouse.

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It was built in 1871 and first lit in 1874.  Keepers quarters were added in 1880.  Its 165 feet tall with a first order Fresnel lens. 

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It was restored in 1980 and the burned out keeper’s quarters were restored in 1988. The lighthouse is the oldest brick structure in St. Augustine. Its 219 steps take you up to the top for some great views of St. Augustine.

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We enjoyed our visit here, however a couple things we would do differently.  You really need some transportation to get around.  It is a lot of walking, so we bought tickets on one of their trolley tours.  This thing takes an hour to loop the city with stops at places they promote and sell “discount” admission tickets.  We found that our senior rate in most places equaled their discounts.  You had to buy them in advance, so if you got there and decided it wasn’t going to be worth it, too bad, they gotcha.

Everything has an admission of about $10 to see, which gets pretty costly after spending $25 each for the trolley tickets.  Some of the stuff was a good value; others, not so much.  Doing it over we have a better idea of what to see and we would just buy the trolley tickets and decide when we got to the places if they were of value.

Monday, November 10, 2014

Our Adventure Update

Monday, November 10, 2014

Today we arrived at Charlotte Motor Speedway Campground in Concord, North Carolina.  Things have gotten a little busy the last couple of days as we have been trying to work out details for our final stops before returning home.  As a result, we have gotten lax in updating our journey.

A complicating factor is the colder weather that has arrived.  Some campgrounds we were considering for a final night stay have closed.  Mid 20s are problematic for us without electrical hook-up.  Likely an issue for Wednesday night.

Tomorrow we are going to the NASCAR Hall of Fame.  Several years ago we were here to visit the garages and tour the track. The Hall of Fame was opened the year after we were here.  Since it is on the way home, we had to stop.

We’ll share our visits to St. Augustine and the barrier islands off Jacksonville, hopefully on next post..

Sunday, November 9, 2014

Daytona and the Birth of Speed

Thursday, November 6, 2014

We need to bring you up to date.  We left Homestead on Tuesday making our way north about 350 miles to St. Augustine, encountering significant traffic until we got north of Miami. Our current home is Anastasia State Park which is located on an island in the Atlantic.  St Augustine is a short distance west, but on the mainland.  You can’t see them from our campsite, but can hear the ocean breakers.  Pretty neat.

As you probably know, St. Augustine is the oldest city in the US.  Ponce De Leon made landfall here in 1513.  We visited Historic SA on Wednesday and will go again tomorrow, Friday.  We will share our experience in the next installment.  Today we went to Daytona and Ormond Beach.

The first stop was Daytona International Speedway, where we took a track tour.  We have been to the 500 in February about ten years ago, but it was too zooey during race day to really see much.  The tour was 90 minutes; visiting pit lane, the garages, tech inspection area, a suite, a pre-race  driver’s meeting, and a lap around the track.  We really enjoyed it.

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Something we have not seen up close and is a relatively new innovation by NASCAR, now used by nearly all car racing series, is the SAFER barrier.  As the next picture shows, instead of an outer wall of concrete or ARMCO rails and posts, this system consists of a movable steel wall with triangular Styrofoam spacers.  When impacted the outer wall moves toward the concrete collapsing the foams blocks, thus reducing the impact energy.  SAFER refers to Steel And Foam Energy Reduction.  Drivers now walk away from 180 mph impacts with this wall system.  Prior to the SAFER barriers in 2000, Dale Earnhardt crashed at Daytona coming out of turn 4.  The sudden impact broke his neck and killed him.    

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They have been racing here since 1959 when the track was built. From about 1936 until 1958, they ran a race course that went down highway A1A then onto the beach, then back up on A1A.  This brings us to our next stop, tracking down the location of where the old track was located and how could they race along the beach?

The first milestone was the north end of the course.  Today a bar and grille is located at the site of the north turn.  This was the point where they left the beach and came up onto A1A.

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This view looks southward.  The cars would be coming from that direction about 1 1/2 miles along the beach.  The sand at the beach is very firm, you leave no footprints as you walk on it.  But as you move away from the water it gets softer, so 1 to 2 foot ruts formed as they left the beach to access A1A.

Traveling to the south end turn, there is a marker.

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We entered the beach and drove the truck along part of the course.  Today the speed limit is 10 mph.  Even with our balding tires, we easily made it down the beach, but getting back up onto the street was a little tricky.

We next drove back north along A1A.  All along sections of the east coast you encounter A1A.  It pretty much parallels US1, which runs along the east coast down to Key West.  FL highway A1A has the hotels and resorts and provides the beach access. 

Located about 10 miles north of the beach race course on A1A (Atlantic Ave.) at Kemp Street is the Streamline Hotel.  It was in the Ebony Bar of the Streamline, in 1948, that Bill France met with drivers and sponsors to form the National Association for Stock Car Racing, NASCAR.  It was to assure sponsors paid drivers the prize money promised.

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Unfortunately, the hotel was closed.  The sign outside says under renovation, but we heard the current owner may not have the money to bring it back.  They continued to race on the beach until 1957, with another race in Darlington, NC.  In 1958 France had built his new 2 1/2 mile Daytona Speedway on property next to the Daytona airport.

Now lets set our time machine back to 1902 to learn how they started running races on the beach.  Remember, Flagler and others built big expensive hotels to attract the rich and famous to Florida’s east coast for winter vacation.  Many of these people had the new rich man’s toy, the automobile.  But the roads were so bad everywhere they didn’t have much opportunity to drive them.  So, a guy named Hathaway promoted Ormond Beach as a place they could run their cars along the stretches of beach here.

The next thing you know, not only did they bring their cars, but they started to race them to see who had the fastest one and pretty soon the beach became known for setting speed records.  In 1904 Flagler built the Ormond Garage, the “Gasoline Alley”, used for prepping the cars. Speed trial racing went on for several years and each year the speeds got higher and the beach run was extended to 7 miles. In 1935, the final year for speed trials, top speed reached was 276 mph.  Ormond Beach became known as the “Birthplace of Speed”.

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The original garage burnt down in 1976, along with all kinds of vintage cars and memorabilia.  This is a replica located in the Ormond Speedway Park. 

When stock car racing started in 1936, it was moved south about 10 miles where the beach was wider to accommodate side by side racing. So, its Ormond, Florida, not Indianapolis or Bonneville, that is the Birth of Speed and it was also the precursor of Stock Car Racing.  So now you know the rest of the story!