Glacial Impressions

August 3, 2013 - Saturday

It finally quit raining about 11AM, so we decided to go to the visitor’s center with some of our questions; then we hit the Going to the Sun road thinking we would just go a ways, then return. Fortunately, it cleared and the sun came out the further along we got, so we went the whole way to the west end of the park. This road is amazing, a bit of a white knuckle, but beautiful. The challenge to build this thing must have been huge. The road clings to shear vertical stone walls where they built the ledge the road is on. Two sections are undergoing badly needed restoration.

The traffic was extremely heavy, making it slow going and many of the parking areas were full. The NPS has a shuttle system; they run so infrequently it is an all day affair to get end to end and back. So we’re sure others like us decided to drive on their own, thus the traffic problems. Other Parks we’ve been to have really good systems and it works. The traffic issues, the inability to park and explore, detract from having a good experience here. Hopefully, the traffic will ease a bit once we are past the weekend. Anyway, despite those issues, we still were able to do some stuff this afternoon. By the way if you ever visit, the east side is definitely less crowded, and our recommendation.

We managed to find some open spots to see some very cool gorges and waterfalls. Some pictures follow.

August 4, 2013 – Sunday

Wow, a gorgeous day, so we went over to the dock at Rising Sun to take a ranger led boat ride and hike. The boat ride took us to the southern end of St. Mary’s Lake then a hike to Baring Falls, then on to St. Mary’s Falls. The scenery both on boat and foot was spectacular. The falls were also quite impressive. We have always found that any ranger led activity is awesome and this did not disappoint. Our ranger was Megan Lopez and she did a great job. Our only issue, but this is us, we dottle along looking at this, smelling that and can make a day out of a 1 hour hike. We were now on a schedule to keep up and catch that boat back, boohoo!

On Dan’s bucket list was to ride one of the restored red busses, an icon of Glacier. So we took a late day ride to Logan Pass. The NPS originally bought hundreds for use in several parks. They were originally made by White Motor in Cleveland. Wear and tear took its toll and they were replaced in most parks by more modern (shuttle) buses. Ford restored about 50 of them, not sure who paid for that and 35 are in use at Glacier. They are propane fueled with auto transmissions. For a big fee they do special excursions to various parts of Glacier. The experience was OK, but we would not do it again. The cheesy finale was to drop us at St Mary’s Lodge (1 mile from campground) and make us wait 10 minutes while the driver went for gas. No doubt they were expecting us to “visit” the gift shop.

The area that is Glacier NP was formed by a tectonic riff, known as the Lewis Overthrust, where an earth plate over rides an adjacent land mass. This was about 170 million years ago. Most mountains, like the Rockies are formed this way. The plate was then covered by glaciers about 12,000 years ago. The glaciers did their magic carving the valleys and forming the lakes. Those all melted away. In the mid 1800s there was a mini ice age that formed more glaciers, estimated at 150. These further defined the landscape. Today, there are about 25, and these are melting at a rate that they will be gone by 2030. Of note here is that these things melt away naturally, with or without man’s presence. The park was designated a National Park in 1912. So what is a glacier? The answer in a day or two.

Some pictures of our day follow.

August 5, 2013 – Monday

Today we hiked a part of the Highline trail to see the garden wall. It turns out the garden wall is the side of a mountain that has a really beautiful collection of wild flowers. This flower wall extends for over a mile. The trail tracks along a narrow ridge maybe 1000 feet above the valley. Some places have a cable hand hold because of how narrow and rocky the trail was. Our advice, don’t look down! Some pictures follow.

Yes we have seen some wildlife, some small and some big check out these shots!

What is a glacier? It starts out as an accumulation of snow that does not melt for several years. After some time the snow compacts and forms ice. As this ice mass continues to grow from additional snow it reaches a weight that starts it sliding down hill. They have to be about 160 feet thick and 25 acres in area to get the process going because they ride on a layer of water formed from the pressure that causes the ice to melt. Think of how ice skates work. As it slides downward it picks up small rocks and dirt that act as the abrasive to carve the mountains, and as they melt the water accumulates at the bottom to form lakes. So now you know!

Miles and Miles

July 31, 2013 - Wednesday

Some final thoughts about Apostle Islands National Seashore. While beautiful, it is a boating oriented park. You really need a boat to see it. The tour boat situation is expensive ($40-$50) and is geared mostly for campers and hikers. The islands are 20 to 30 miles, a good 1-2 hour boat ride. The lighthouses on the Islands are currently being renovated at a high cost and will have limited access for most people.

We got an early start this morning. Weather was beautiful, go figure. The 450 mile journey wasn’t that exciting, other than in Superior, WI, which is a big commercial port, along with Duluth, MN. The highway spanned a couple of cool bridges, and had a great view of the freighters. Dan wants to go back for a longer look there. A picture follows, but apologies in advance for the out the window shot, no place to pull over....

Since I haven’t talked about our rig lately, thought it may be a good time. It got weighed earlier this year, the F250 weighs in at 7000 pounds and the trailer is 8100 lbs, with about 800 lbs on the king pin. The trailer is pretty close to expected, but the truck weight was surprisingly heavier, which explains its capability with this tow. On the way to Jamestown it was blowing 25 mpg right on our nose, holding us to 5th gear, 4th on the uphills, and about 7-8 mpg overall. It took about 9 ½ hours to arrive at Camp Wal-Mart of Jamestown, ND. We can do these long tows because of how the whole rig performs!

August 1, 2013 - Thursday

We woke to a sunny morning and got rolling by 7 AM or so, as we wanted to make Havre, MT 600 miles away. The wind had died down, but hills again kept us to 5th gear and about 8 mpg. The landscape in western North Dakota, near Theodore Roosevelt National Park looks a lot like the Badlands in South Dakota. About 30 miles into Montana we depart I-94 making our way along MT 200 west. This road was rough and very narrow. Cars have speed limit of 70 mph, trucks 60, which is insane. We putted along at 55-60 mph, and that got a little hairy as you passed wide load hay trucks.
After about 75 miles we took MT 24, which was also rough with big hills, but very pretty scenery. In about 40 miles we came to Fort Peck Lake, which is actually a reservoir, and quite pretty. There was a turn off so a picture follows.

After another 40 miles we headed west along US 2. This is the same road that originates in Michigan’s UP. We didn’t take it due to oil rig traffic and big trucks from Minot west.

We arrived at the Havre Wal-Mart after about 13 hours. Whew, a long drive. Dan got a little tried about the time we hit Fort Peck, so he kicked back a 5 Hour Energy. First time he used it, and wow he’s still doing laps in the parking lot! For old farts it may be 10 hour energy.

Hopefully we will make it to St Mary and Glacier NP tomorrow.

August 2, 2013 – Friday

We are in St. Mary, MT. It rained; actually poured most of the trip. Dan hates driving with the trailer in the rain. Visibility is low, traction is reduced, and it makes a mess of the truck and trailer, although one positive, it cleaned off most of the dead bugs from the front of the truck and trailer. Set up camp at Johnson’s in the rain, euch!

It is supposed to rain big through tomorrow, so we’ll need to find some indoor stuff to do. The mountains were pretty much invisible in the fog as we drove down to East Glacier to check out the Lodge there. It, as well as most of the other lodges in Glacier, were built by the railroads in their prosperous days in the 20s & 30s. East Glacier is like stepping back to that time, pretty neat. A picture follows.

We aren’t sure what our plans are for tomorrow.

Superior Scenes

July 30, 2013 - Tuesday

It started cloudy, cool, and rainy today so we were in no real hurry to get going today.  We started our day at the State fish hatchery here in Bayfield.  They rear lake trout, splake, and brown trout by the hundred thousands!  They must have a high mortality rate.  It was interesting to learn how they hatch and raise them.  Splake is a hybrid between Lake and Brook Trout, however they will not spawn in the wild, so the hatchery process is necessary to keep the species going.

We then visited the NPS info center for pins and postcards and for recommendations for access to some areas we were thinking about.  Due to trail conditions from the rain, we were left with Myers Beach.  They launch kayaks here for a 3 mile paddle to some of the sea caves.  The Lake was perfectly flat again today, but weather looked threatening, so it seemed to us a bit risky, but many were going.  There are guided kayak expeditions for $100 PP/day.  So instead we walked along the beach.  We have told many of you, give us a beach to walk, and we can make a day of it!  Of course we took some pictures and they’re next.

 

Here is a short video of "Superior Scenes."

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=thMJ2Ze-8Wc&feature=youtu.be


The journey starts in earnest tomorrow as we head for Jamestown, ND.

 

Our Next Adventure

July 28, 2013 - Sunday

Today was “launch day”, the beginning of our journey for 2013. We hit the road around 8:30 AM, a nice early start. We’re getting pretty efficient at this, probably due to practice and Lynn’s to-do list keeping us focused and organized. The weather all day has been cold and cloudy with periods of rain throughout the journey, although it cleared enough to make the Big Mac crossing quite nice. That bridge is a wonder and it is beautiful as was the blue water in the Straits beneath it.

We arrived at Camp Wal-Mart in Marquette about 6PM. It is cold and raining with a stiff NW wind blowing. 52 degrees cold, Brrrrr….., set a record for coldest July 28th here since 1971. Camp Wal-Mart has no electric, (hey what do you want for free) so we are using our new propane catalytic heater. Really glad we have that.

Hopefully this weather will improve as we get to the Apostle Islands tomorrow.

July 29, 2013 – Monday

We woke up to a beautiful sunny day as we prepared to depart for Bayfield, WI. We arrived at the Apostle Islands campground about 1 PM central time. The campground is a nice setting, the sites are well separated and pretty big, but a couple of things didn’t set well with us. First were $1.50 showers, geez, doesn’t $30 a night get us included showers? Second, the power box was improperly wired. Our surge protector wouldn’t pass it and our circuit check indicated the hot and neutral reversed. We plugged into the neighbor’s (vacant site) box and all worked. The box appears newer. Dan told the owner and he got all cheezed about it, and that it was probably my stuff causing the problem. So Dan told him we are staying plugged in there until he fixes it or we leave. It is this exact situation that prompted us to install that protector.

Bayfield is a lot like Leeland, Michigan. It is the gateway to the 22 islands that make up the Apostle Islands National Lakeshore. Most Islands were heavily logged into the early 1900s until NPS took them over. They are typical of other Great Lakes Islands, low and tree covered. These have rocky shores for the most part. The area is beautiful, but a little ho-hum to us after our 40 years of visiting and boating almost all of the lakes.

Madeline Island is the largest of the group, but is not part of the NPS holdings. It is a residential community served by ferry boat from Bayfield. There is a museum there, but it’s too far to walk to and the cost to transport your car along with the two us puts it at $50. We have decided it’s probably not cost effective to go there.

We did take the Sunset Grand Tour with the Apostle Islands Boat Co. It was well worth it, although a bit chilly. They did a great job hitting the high points and giving some of the history. We saw a couple of lighthouses, sea caves, and a shipwreck. Some pictures follow.

Sea Caves

Raspberry Island Lighthouse

Sunset



Tomorrow we plan to drive the scenic shore line route.

Coming Home

November 1, 2012
This is our last day before turning north to come home.  It is with mixed emotions that we leave.  While we are both anxious to get home, the weather is great here, today in the low 80s and about 65 last night.  Best of all it's been sunny.  As it is about 1100 miles back, we figure on taking 3 days to do it.  Tomorrow night we plan to stop near Birmingham, AL, then Elizabethtown, KY before the final push.

This differs a bit from our original plan, but after the Space Center, we question if Huntsville will be of any value to us. Unfortunately, at Kentucky Horse Park, the museum and additional activities are closed on Monday/Tuesday after November 4th.

Our day was spent visiting one of the plantations along the Mississippi.  We chose the Evergreen Plantation because it is the most intact plantation in the area.  Since the early 1800s, it has withstood hurricanes, floods, and the Civil War.  For us, these plantations differ from the ones we have seen in Virginia, South Carolina, and Georgia.  They are impressive but not huge like the mansions we have seen before. In New Orleans the crop was sugar cane.  Harvesting sugar cane is very hard and dangerous work.  It is harvested bent over using a machete to cut the stalks.  Think about doing this for 14 hours per day in very humid, 90+ degrees, and subtropical conditions.  In addition you are  standing but a few feet from others doing the same thing.  We wonder how many hands and feet got chopped off. This work was performed by slaves.  There were 54 slaves on this plantation for about 800 acres of sugar cane.

Sugar cane is a perennial grass, but a declining yield forces replanting every 2 to ten years,  A stalk of cane is planted, today it is done by machine, then by hand.  The field is initially burned to get rid of dry leaves and to expose the stalk.  The stalks are cut to length, chipped or ground, then pressed to extract the juice.  The juice is boiled to invert the sugar.  Then the liquid in the syrup is boiled away. The result is an unrefined sugar.

A couple of interesting tidbits we learned.  The ceiling of the front porch of the main house is painted a sky blue.  The superstition is that the blue will ward off evil spirits, keeping them outside the house.  Second, did you know a Creole was anyone of first generation born in Louisiana?  They can be German, French, or American.  We thought they were at least part French.

Some pictures follow. 

Evergreen Plantation Main House

Evergreen Mansion Slave Quarter

This will be the last post until we get home.  We will do a conclusion post at that time.  Hope you have enjoyed riding along with us.

The Big Easy

October 31, 2012
After a lengthy drive we arrived in the New Orleans area at a KOA campground yesterday.  Wow, what a difference.  This campground, as with most KOAs, is very nice and clean, but costs about 2 1/2 times what we paid in League City.  The drive included a 25 mile long "swamp bridge" over Atchafalaya National Wildlife Refuge.  There was a shorter bridge over the Maurepas Swamp WMA.  Building these things must have been a huge feat.  The Atchafalaya is the location for Swamp People, shown on the History Channel.

Today we went to the French Quarter in New Orleans.  This place is normally a little strange, but today being Halloween many people were in costume adding to the aura.  We now understand that Halloween rivals the Mardi Gras as the most popular "holiday", however, we left before things got too crazy.  Dan's favorite things there include beignet, gumbo, and pralines; all of which were sampled during our visit today.  Besides great food, the place is known for jazz and its buildings which pretty much all date back to the early 1800s. 

St Louis Cathedral, Andrew Jackson Statue in foreground

This guy remained statue-like and motionless

Halloween decorations

Another oddity, since N.O. is below sea level, bodies are placed in above ground crypts.  The St. Louis Cemetery can be visited.  There were several people hanging out to gather a group and offer a tour.  We thought this was a bit sacrilegious, but it is New Orleans.  Following are some pictures.

Crypts in St Louis Cemetery

October 29, 2012
Today was an extra day, as Dan made a mistake in the trip planner. So we decided to head toward Galveston Island.  Originally we thought the Island was only a resort for the rich.  We were wrong. Yes, it was inhabited by wealthy people, but it was a significant Texas city and port.  We visited one of the mansions, the Moody Mansion.  This place was built in the 1890s and had indoor plumbing and electricity.  Photography was restricted so only outside shots are provided. 

We also went to the Ocean Star off shore oil rig museum.  This museum tells the story of off shore oil drilling and the transfer of oil to the shore stations.  It explains the process well and was very interesting.  Working on one of these things appears to be very dangerous.

October 28, 2012
We spent the day visiting some friends in the Houston area.  Actually two stops.  The first was with Bob, a work associate of Dan's, who lives amongst several golf clubs.  What better way to see the sights than by cruising around in Bob's hopped up golf cart, very cool!  Our second stop was to visit Lynn's friends, Debbie and Hugh, topped off with a tasty Texas BBQ dinner.  Another great day!

Houston

October 27, 2012

We are in League City at the Safari MH and RV Park.  We arrived late yesterday and the office was closed, but since I called and reserved a spot, they had our assigned campsite posted on the office door.  The park is dumpy compared to others we have stayed at, but our Passport America pass got it for $16 per night, which makes it bearable.  It is downright cold here this morning.  Geez, Houston at 50 degrees, who would have thought?

We bundled up and headed for the Port of Houston to take a boat tour, M/V Sam Houston, at 10AM.  Brrr!  Some of those heavy clothes we haven’t used all trip got used today.  Yeh, I know what you’re thinking, another Dan stop to see freighters, oil refineries, and commercial ship stuff.  Well you’re right, but it was neat, and best of all it was free!

We then went back down to the Space Center.  Our second day was free, as you do not have much time to see the place on tour day.  We took in several interesting movies and presentations.  Overall the visit to JSC was good, but we have a couple of beefs.  First they charge extra for a bunch of the stuff we think should be included in the $22 regular admission fee, like $6 for parking, $3 to let your kid blow off some energy in their play pen, and $6 for the audio tour.  Second, the Tram Tour, an essential part of the visit, is first come first serve basis.  When they get busy it is easy to blow 1 hour waiting for the dumb thing.  Our Level 9 Tour allowed us to by-pass that hassle.  They should assign tram times when you buy your ticket as the tram only runs every 45 minutes or so.

If you decide to visit and take the Level 9 Tour, and we recommend it by the way, even at $90, you will stop at the employee cafeteria for lunch.  Save time for your souvenir shopping at the employee gift store within the cafeteria.  It is a bit limited in selection, but prices are much cheaper than at the space center gift shop.   

October 26, 2012

We left Montgomery early this morning to travel to the Johnston Space Center in Houston.  Our Level 9 Tour at NASA was at 11:30, but we had concerns of heavy traffic traversing Houston during rush hour, although it wasn’t that bad. We arrived early.  The tour was pretty cool.  We saw the Neutral Buoyancy Lab, actually a 40 ft deep pool they use for training astronauts in zero gravity.  Under water is a full mockup of the International Space Station.  Unfortunately no activity was going on there as it was “Safety Day” where the safety equipment was being checked. 

Other stops included Mission Control and the Astronaut Training Facility. The tour took over 5 hours to complete.  Some pictures are included below.

Apollo Mision Control

 This historical room heard "One small step for man, one giant step for mankind", and "Houston, we have a problem"

International Space Station (ISS) Current Mission Control

Neutral Buoyancy Lab with ISS Mock-up

Gemini Space Walk Simulation

 

October 25, 2012

We went up to Huntsville today to visit the Sam Houston Museum.  Huntsville was Houston’s homestead, where he resided during much of his political career, raised 4 of his 8 children, and is buried there.  Sam Houston was a very significant figure in Texas history and their fight for independence from Mexico.  He would have likely been a candidate for the Presidency had he not taken an unpopular stand to not join the Confederacy in the Civil War.  Also in Huntsville is a very impressive 65 ft tall statue of Houston that is right alongside I-45. 

October 24, 2012

Today we visited the George Bush Museum and Library located on campus of Texas A&M in College Station.  The museum provided an in depth look into Bush’s life before he entered the public arena.  He was a naval aviator in WWII, and crashed twice, nearly being captured by the Japanese after one of those crashes.  He graduated with a business degree from Yale and started an oil drilling business near Midland and later in the Gulf.  He must have made a ton of money, because we saw no record of a “real” job after he began his political pursuit.  He and Barbara suffered the loss of their daughter Robin to Leukemia when she was only 3 years old.  Today they work with cancer patients and research, driven by Robin’s death.

Berlin Wall Freedom Sculpture

This sculpture was originally at the Berlin Wall site.  After destruction of the Wall this sculpture was given to the Bush Library.  The horses are shown going over the broken down wall.

October 23, 2012

Most of today was a travel day to Montgomery, a distance of slightly less than 300 miles.  We were amazed to see the extent of development which extended from Sugarland, through Houston, and all the way up to Montgomery.  Our campground is a KOA here in Montgomery, very nice.  The objective of our visit is to see some dear friends Dan used to work with that currently live on Lake Conroe.

October 22, 2012

We went to Padre Island National Seashore today to play a little in the ocean and walk the beach. It was very windy today with fairly big surf, so it was fun walking along the water’s edge, something we enjoy doing.  Along the way we searched for shells, but were disappointed not to find many, just small ones.  There were quite a number of Man-of-War jellyfish washed on shore, their possible presence in the surf kept us more on shore.  There was camping right on the beach if you wanted to do it and there were several campers there.  Hearing the surf all night would be cool.  Following are some pictures.